Big & Beautiful
How Redefining Beauty Can Save Lives
By Alice Zoo
COURTNEY, 24, GRIMSBY
“I’ve been big from a young age.
When I was 10, I was diagnosed with an underactive thyroid, so each year I’ve put on more weight. I was always really active, so it was strange. New lumps and bumps formed that I didn’t know what to do with.
I was bullied a lot throughout my school years, and I hated my body - absolutely hated it. It really affected my mental health.
When I was in college, I went on a big, long-term diet and lost five stone. I was a lot slimmer - though I was still big - but I realised I wasn’t a better person, I wasn’t suddenly beautiful, I wasn’t suddenly amazing. I was still the same person, but a lot less happy.
Then I discovered Instagram.
I remember seeing the first girl that used a body positive hashtag and I thought she looked amazing
But one night someone commented on all of my pictures saying that I was fat and looked like someone from Star Wars.
I messaged her and asked her why she was doing it. Why she found it fun to hurt someone like that. She replied, and later admitted that she had hang-ups about her own body. She said she felt fat.
It made me think that often people are just pushing their own insecurities out. Someone will look at me and think: ‘I don’t want to be that size, I wouldn’t be happy that size, so why should you be happy when you’re fat?’
It makes me sad to think about people who are struggling so much that they think the only way to make themselves feel better is to put someone down. That’s not the way. You can’t be comparing yourself to other people.
I know it’s not easy, but the sooner you start to see yourself, how great you are, the better. You won’t need to judge someone by their looks.”
KATIE, 34, LONDON
“I have been waiting to be thin most of my life - to lose weight. I’ve put a lot of things on hold.
When I was a kid growing up in Poland, I was quite sickly with upper throat infections and had to go to places we called sanatoriums to get better. Every time I went to one, they would put me on a low-calorie diet.
They were always saying that I had to lose weight. Nowadays, when I look at photos from childhood, I don’t see anything wrong. I wasn’t skinny, but I wasn’t fat.
But I was made to feel that there was something wrong.
A few years ago, I started feeling a growing sense of anger.
I was consuming a lot of feminist blogs and podcasts, and they talked about body positivity and self-love. I got to the point where I thought, ‘There’s nothing wrong with the way I look, there’s nothing wrong with the way anyone looks. I’m just going to live my life.’
I stopped waiting to buy nice clothes, I just bought the clothes that fitted me. I started going on holiday. I started wearing a swimsuit and going swimming, which I always used to love when I was a kid.
Now my attitude is:
‘Don’t like what you see? Look somewhere else!’
I’m no longer trying to change myself to fit society. I’m trying to change society so it can fit me.
Body positivity is not just for fat people or skinny people, it’s for everyone.
Body positivity is the freedom that comes with being able to be happy with yourself. It gives you so much time to do other things, to travel, to think, to write, to make friends without having to worry about how you look all the time.
Everyone could use a bit of body positivity in their life.”
Fat & Beautiful
Why we are proud of our fat bodies!
By Alice Zoo
MERCEDEZ, 28, LONDON / CHICAGO
“I was on a flight recently and I asked for a seat belt extender, which I’m totally comfortable asking for - it doesn’t bother me.
I was told I would have to pay for it. I said, ‘No thanks’, and they just ignored it, so I went without a seat belt from London to Morocco and back again.
People think being fat is our fault.
I struggled with not feeling desirable as a teenager. I thought I would never find a partner, that nobody would love me in the body I had.
I look back at the time where I hated myself the most and I’m like - I was so cute. Why would anyone think these things?
I do feel really sensitive about desirability, through relationships and especially the way men have treated me as disposable. But I know that I’m hot.
I know that I’m a worthy human being. And it has nothing to do with my size
I know that my body is some people’s greatest fear, and to confront that is uncomfortable.
To confront me being happy and living life and feeling healthy - whatever that means - threatens people’s desires to fit into a beauty norm.
I think it scares people that you can exist in a way that you haven’t been told that you can exist.”
TARA, 30, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE
“Sometimes being fat is awesome, and sometimes it’s difficult.
Spaces aren’t designed for larger bodies.
Public transport is a nightmare. You need two seats on an plane. But a big body has just as much right as a smaller body.
I think as I’ve got older, I just care less. Or I care more about myself and less about what’s expected of me
Being fat can feel rebellious. Being fat and loving yourself is something completely different.
I used to hate it. I wouldn’t eat. I wanted my skin to be lighter, so when I was in primary school, I’d cover myself in talcum powder. Now, of course, I realise there’s nothing wrong with me.
It would help if there were fat dolls out there for kids. Dolls like Barbie, have a totally unattainable shape. For everyone - of any size, race, whatever - it’s just not manageable.
As I’ve got older, I've grown into my body. That’s the best way to say it. It kind of grew on me.
When I finally became happy with where I was, when I stopped always trying to improve, that made a big difference. My partner helped loads as well.
People think that if you’re fat then you can’t be healthy. You can be really big, and not as healthy as you should be. But then you’re happy, so it’s about weighing up what’s more important. When I’m smaller, I’m a state.
I’m a happy size, and a healthy size, for all of me. For my mental health and my physical health, which are almost the same thing.”
Skinny & Beautiful
I model, but I do not need to fit a one-size sample collection mold
By Kathryn Schmid
I am a cat-loving, crime-investigating, coffee-saturated college student. My friends tell me I could have a promising future in stand-up comedy or as a public speaker. I hate spending money on clothes. My bed is always made, and I like my waffles still-frozen and hot dogs uncooked. I am also a size zero model struggling with Anorexia-Nervosa.
Not so much “‘I’ll skip dinner so when I drink tonight I can get wasted faster” anorexia and not “I want the flu so that when I throw up I have a flat stomach” anorexia, either. Definitely not “Commenting ‘I look fat’ on my tagged images’” anorexia (since that would draw attention to my embarrassingly lithe frame). I mean “debilitating, in-and-out of residential eating disorder facilities, fearful of my heart stopping in my sleep, relationship-fracturing, hiding behind baggy sweats, constantly feeling embarrassed” anorexia.
Every symptom of anorexia I listed matters. They are all issues that need addressing — especially in a society that normalizes disordered behavior and appearance. When I was in residential rehab for my anorexia, every girl’s reason for their disorder and unhealthy behaviors varied, yet we all shared ridiculous strength, courage, and determination to fight.
According to the National Association of Anorexia Nervosa and Associated Disorders, because “every 62 minutes at least one person dies as a direct result from an eating disorder[,] eating disorders have the highest mortality rate of any mental illness.” Studies have shown that fashion magazines and social media, among other popular culture mediums, negatively influence young people’s perceptions of their bodies. And my peers in my industry have spoken out about the impossible expectation to look a specific way.
What’s “normal” for models or “beautiful” for society with respect to female appearance needs to change, even if happens slowly; one step, one op-ed, one on-campus Ashley Graham-led discussion, one body-positive Instagram post at a time.
So how can I, as a model, inspire a different outcome than influencing girls to lose weight and potentially develop a horrible, life-threatening illness?
I was scouted when I was a ripe 14-year-old growing up in Missouri, who wore a daily uniform of Nike shorts and graphic tees and played hockey everyday after school. I had a Midwestern accent and did not have anything close to an eating disorder. But I went from struggling to walk in heels to being shipped off to New York for Fashion Week, eventually signing worldwide with the esteemed agency Next Models. I walked the runways for companies like V-Files and have shot for WMag, Marc Jacobs, Estée Lauder, and Maybelline. A casting director for Calvin Klein told me I was beautiful. “Le monde est à toi,” she said, The world is yours.
But it wasn’t — at least not entirely — because part of me was imprisoned by my eating disorder. I could never be fully happy and confident with a voice in my head reminding me I was too thick and too short and that my hips were too wide and my nose would protrude too much and my lips perpetually chapped and my skin, dotted with moles and gleaming with pores, would always need retouching and smoothing.
But I was a model with a capital “M.” I had the badge of approval from designers and magazines, and an agency that especially booked me! So I was finally beautiful enough, right? I didn’t need to change? Wrong. It was too late; I was too deeply involved in the fashion industry. Girls like me with pre-existing anxiety around our appearances and character, desperate for outside acceptance, are not meant for modeling.
This is my truth: I have endured years of self-hate, inauthenticity, low self-esteem, and anorexia.
These are my lies: All models are perfectly slender and tall. All models overflow with confidence. All models ooze self-assurance. I am the only model who wishes the fashion industry didn’t place pressure to look just one way — skinny.
Online and in real life, models like myself and numerous others outside the industry have advocated for a redesign of what is accepted as the standard, “cookie-cutter” model. We should not have to be size zero, perfectly coiffed and primed from head to toe. We shouldn’t need to change what we were given at birth. We should be allowed and encouraged to have genuine curves, scars, marks, differences, anything — because these aspects make us human, make us beautiful, make us healthy.
Is it hypocritical that here I am, a size zero, arguing for body positivity and size acceptance? Not in my eyes. If the fashion world had been as accepting towards perceived imperfections when I started my career — as the industry is becoming now — I doubt my anorexia would have festered into the terrible wound I live with today. I wouldn’t have felt pressured to lose whatever baby fat my 14-year-old body carried around, I wouldn’t have worked out so much, dieted so frequently, starved so often… I’d like to think my life would be exponentially happier without the modeling industry exacerbating my eating disorder.
I want to push the global modeling industry, and everyone that participates in society, to redefine what beauty is and appears as. That’s why I adore the impact and work of strong women like Ashley Graham, who is speaking on Sunday, Mar. 31 at The New School alongside New York Times Fashion & Style editor Joanna Nikas at an event titled “Reshaping Beauty with Ashley Graham.” I’m attending this event because I want to continue this conversation.
To me, Graham is a beacon of light in the modeling industry, offering a genuine form of beauty with a message that is simple enough: Just be yourself, in whatever flawed, ever-changing, and alternative form that may be. Graham is well known for her plus-size curves, which is refreshing amongst the skin and bones that typically grace Vogue. She represents what most American women actually look like. Even still, she receives criticism from people who think she doesn’t belongs in fashion because she isn’t a size zero or two and others who think she isn’t that big or “curvy enough” to be a plus-size advocate. She’s been attacked for losing weight and for having a flat stomach.
I think they’re all wrong. Ashley Graham is not advocating for a less-defined, curvier ideal of beauty that fits her exact mold to benefit herself and her career; she is pushing for an inclusive, boundary-less, and definition-less standard of beauty without any specific norms of what’s deemed “perfection.” Any body shape, from one with a flat stomach one month and love handles the next to one struggling to keep itself strong, is beautiful.
Ashley helps me see that even I am beautiful, with my embarrassingly lanky arms and knobby knees, bloated stomach and dark circles, as I gain weight with perseverance and dedication to my recovery. As the Times’ event page says, she “encourages women [like me] to celebrate their authentic selves — no retouching required.” I personally wish all women, men, and people advocated for this change in the fashion world and entire world.
At The New School, we have agency to make a difference. We can’t just throw out all of the mannequins in Parsons, even though they have been of extremely limited size variety. Up until a student started a petition in 2016, our fashion department had just one truly plus-sized mannequin out of a sea of standard, uniform-sized forms. We must design for and celebrate bodies of all shapes and sizes.
Tell your friend she is just as lovely today as she was last year, five pounds ago. Love your body for all that it is and isn’t. Be like Ashley Graham and play a part in changing what is beautiful, because everyone is beautiful. You just might help someone like me beat their eating disorder.
Anorexic & Beautiful
A Letter from a Recovering Anorexic
By Kathryn Schmid
These are my lies: All models are perfectly slender and tall. All models overflow with confidence. All models ooze self-assurance. I am the only model who wishes the fashion industry didn’t place pressure to look just one way — skinny.
Online and in real life, models like myself and numerous others outside the industry have advocated for a redesign of what is accepted as the standard, “cookie-cutter” model. We should not have to be size zero, perfectly coiffed and primed from head to toe. We shouldn’t need to change what we were given at birth. We should be allowed and encouraged to have genuine curves, scars, marks, differences, anything — because these aspects make us human, make us beautiful, make us healthy.
Is it hypocritical that here I am, a size zero, arguing for body positivity and size acceptance? Not in my eyes. If the fashion world had been as accepting towards perceived imperfections when I started my career — as the industry is becoming now — I doubt my anorexia would have festered into the terrible wound I live with today. I wouldn’t have felt pressured to lose whatever baby fat my 14-year-old body carried around, I wouldn’t have worked out so much, dieted so frequently, starved so often… I’d like to think my life would be exponentially happier without the modeling industry exacerbating my eating disorder.
I want to push the global modeling industry, and everyone that participates in society, to redefine what beauty is and appears as. That’s why I adore the impact and work of strong women like Ashley Graham, who is speaking on Sunday, Mar. 31 at The New School alongside New York Times Fashion & Style editor Joanna Nikas at an event titled “Reshaping Beauty with Ashley Graham.” I’m attending this event because I want to continue this conversation.
To me, Graham is a beacon of light in the modeling industry, offering a genuine form of beauty with a message that is simple enough: Just be yourself, in whatever flawed, ever-changing, and alternative form that may be. Graham is well known for her plus-size curves, which is refreshing amongst the skin and bones that typically grace Vogue. She represents what most American women actually look like. Even still, she receives criticism from people who think she doesn’t belongs in fashion because she isn’t a size zero or two and others who think she isn’t that big or “curvy enough” to be a plus-size advocate. She’s been attacked for losing weight and for having a flat stomach.
I think they’re all wrong. Ashley Graham is not advocating for a less-defined, curvier ideal of beauty that fits her exact mold to benefit herself and her career; she is pushing for an inclusive, boundary-less, and definition-less standard of beauty without any specific norms of what’s deemed “perfection.” Any body shape, from one with a flat stomach one month and love handles the next to one struggling to keep itself strong, is beautiful.
Ashley helps me see that even I am beautiful, with my embarrassingly lanky arms and knobby knees, bloated stomach and dark circles, as I gain weight with perseverance and dedication to my recovery. As the Times’ event page says, she “encourages women [like me] to celebrate their authentic selves — no retouching required.” I personally wish all women, men, and people advocated for this change in the fashion world and entire world.
At The New School, we have agency to make a difference. We can’t just throw out all of the mannequins in Parsons, even though they have been of extremely limited size variety. Up until a student started a petition in 2016, our fashion department had just one truly plus-sized mannequin out of a sea of standard, uniform-sized forms. We must design for and celebrate bodies of all shapes and sizes.
Tell your friend she is just as lovely today as she was last year, five pounds ago. Love your body for all that it is and isn’t. Be like Ashley Graham and play a part in changing what is beautiful, because everyone is beautiful. You just might help someone like me beat their eating disorder.